Gyaru - Biblioteka.sk

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Gyaru
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Gyaru (Japanese: ギャル) pronounced [ɡʲa̠ꜜɾɯ̟ᵝ], is a Japanese fashion subculture. The term gyaru is a Japanese transliteration of the English slang word gal.[1][2][3][4] The initial meaning as a Japanese slang word during the Showa era was similar to the English meaning and referred to a young woman in her late teens to twenties.[5] In the early Showa period, the term Gyaru was also used in a mocking manner towards young women with a "frivolous" lifestyle (Modern Manga Dictionary (1931)).[5]

The fashion subculture was considered to be nonconformist and a rebelling against Japanese social and aesthetic standards[6] during a time when women were expected to be housewives and fit Asian beauty standards of pale skin and dark hair. For Japanese women who saw those who participated in this fashion during its rise, they considered it a fashion style too racy and freewheeling; with some feeling it caused a ruckus, juvenile delinquency and frivolousness among teenage girls.[7] Its popularity peaked in the 1990s and early 2000s. They are also known for partying and clubbing, being rather provocative, being flirtatious, and unwinding and having fun.

The male equivalent of a gyaru is a gyaruo.

History

A photo shooting featuring Shibuya style Gyarus with both pale and tan skin at Ikebukuro in 2009

Gyaru Before Gyaru Culture

1970s

In the early Shōwa era, the term gal began to be used as a modern word to make fun of young women (Modern Manga Dictionary (1931)).

Although it has not been fully confirmed, some people say that the term gal became popular when Wrangler released women's jeans called "Gals" in 1972.

In 1978, a Japanese fashion information magazine for girls called "GAL'S LIFE'' was first published. This magazine introduced the culture of women in the West Coast of the United States, and included punk rock music, along with other genres like new wave and indie. However, the magazine had nothing to do with Japan's gyaru culture. Later, this magazine gained controversy due to its extreme expression of sexuality. (see Harmful books Progress in the regulation of harmful books).

In 1979, Kenji Sawada 's song "OH! Gal'' became a hit.

1980s

At the height of the bubble economy of Japan in the late 1980s, women began to appear wearing bodycon dresses and women's suits that were extremely tight and emphasized their body lines. Although this style originated from Europe in the early 1980s, it began to gain popularity as Japan was at a time where the economy was at its best. During this time period, this style was mostly worn by female college students and office ladies, and the word "gal" was used to referred to women of the younger generation. The words "pichi pichi gyaru'' (lively attractive gal) and "ike ike gyaru" (cool gal) also appeared in the early 1980s.

In Shibuya, there were constructions for several fashion and department stores, and the city became more youth-friendly.

On the other hand, in Harajuku, there was a huge boom in street dance culture called Takenokozoku in the early 1980s, and even in the late 1980s when Takenokozoku was on the decline, various youth cultures such as street live performances and performers were emerging mainly in Harajuku.

Heisei/Reiwa Gal

1990s

Even into the 1990s, the word gal continued to be used. In particular, the "Oyaji Gal" that appears in the manga "Sweet Spot", drawn by Yutsuko Chusonji gained so much recognition that it won the Buzzword Award. This term is usually used for young women who act like old men. Although this term has little to do with gyaru fashion itself, it can be said that it was one of the first indicators that gyaru were "cutting-edge in appearance, but somehow lacked order and manners in their speech and behavior". Later on, modern gyaru was compared with Oyaji gal.

Shibuya 109 in 2006

Around this time, Shibuya's shop tenants such as 109 and PARCO gradually shifted to catering to teenagers, establishing the area as a cutting-edge district for teen fashion.

Meanwhile, since around 1993 in Harajuku, street fashion has flourished, as tenant rents were relatively low. From around 1998, Gothic Lolita fashion began to emerge, which later became connected to Gyaru, forming an even more diverse youth culture.[8]

Kogal and Amuraa

From 1992 to 1993, just after the Japanese bubble burst, high school girls with short skirts and loose socks, and wearing uniforms, appeared, which began to attract attention from the mass media. This is around when the word

During the same time period, Namie Amuro of SUPER MONKEY'S, had influenced many young girls with her style. Those who imitated the way she dressed called the style "Amuraa". Along with amuraa, other styles, such as 1970s style surfer fashion and LA fashion had become popular among teenage girls. One particularly significant change in fashion was the rise of brown dyed hair, which is theorized to because of the rise of Namie Amuro.[9]

By 1993, the Office Lady/female college student boom that had been going on since the 1980s had completely ended due to the collapse of the bubble economy, and the "high school girl boom'' was in full swing. From around 1995. this symbolized that even the entertainment and entertainment of young people was changing to a culture centered around younger high school and junior high school girls .

There are various theories about the origin of the word Kogal, but the most popular theory is that the term was originally used as a slang term to distinguish high school girls who were not allowed to enter night clubs from adult women. There is also a theory that the word "Kogyaru'' was derived as an abbreviation of "High school girl" in Japanese.

Another derivative word that was created through the initiative of the mass media was "Magogyaru", which refers to a junior high school girl.

During this period, Kogal was popular to the degree there was also a "Kogyaru boom" in the media, including shows and weekly magazines, featuring specials about kogals on a regular basis. However, in the shadow of this, various issues such as the lack of a concept of chastity and moral values among young people were also brought up at the same time. In particular, with regard to "Enjo kōsai'' (compensated dating), there were concerns that laws prohibiting child prostitution and child pornography had not yet been established, and this was strongly viewed as a problem. It has also been noted that for many gals, it was only through these sources of funds that they could dress up in extremely expensive fashion.

While Kogal was popular in the 1990s, it was rarely seen in the mass media anymore in the 2000s. However, in foreign countries such as the United States, Kogal is also often used as a general term to describe Japanese high school girls. In some places, Kogal is also used as a form of fetish category.[10]

Appearance

The appearance of circle lenses on the right eye

By the early 2010s, gyaru fashion was typically characterized by tanned skin as it is considered a must in some substyles, they were also most often seen with highly elongated and decorated artificial nails. As for the appearance of a gyaru, dramatic makeup is also considered essential in this fashion subculture or depending on which substyle one partakes in. The makeup typically consists of black eye shadow on the lower lash line, eye liner, fake eyelashes, and sometimes a white eye shadow or a touch of that color is applied to either the inner eye corners or to the outer corners near the lower lash line of the eyes and on the lash line. This is to make them appear larger or to contour them to elongate the eye of the sclera. Though it is both seen and said that in the online communities of gyaru that when white eyeshadow is applied in the extremities of the lower lash line that most gyaru despise or that it is frowned upon when this method of makeup application is applied within its style. In the later years of this style, with the popularity of South Korea during that time, the style would see the use of the South Korean makeup technique of increasing or creating a larger appearance of the under eye by applying makeup, such as highlighting the under eye and contouring the eye crease to make the eye bag appear prominent; this is known as Korean애교살; RRaegyosal. This should not be confused with periorbital puffiness, even though both appear similar; one is a health condition while the other is done with makeup or by the use of plastic surgery such as botox. Also, contouring different parts of the face to change facial features and highlighting the nose for a slimming effect is often done. Colored contacts are often seen especially circle lenses to change eye color from a distance and also to make their eyes appear larger with the extreme diameter of these lenses.

Hairstyling, such as hair texture, color or styling, often differs within the substyles. Heavily bleached or dyed hair is most often seen; shades ranged from dark brown to lighter shades of brown to multiple shades of red or multiple shades of blonde. Hair is mostly styled either by curling it with a curling iron or having straight hair done by the use of a hair straightener. Hair may be curled to create extra volume and heavily crimped up. The hair is crimped differently than in the West. In Japanese, this hair styling was called スジ盛り (sujimori); in English, it means assorted streaks. This styling is named so, not only because of its enormous volume of hair, the usage of hair extension to achieve this look or even its use of an assortment of wigs to create this hairstyle. However, this name comes from these streaks of hair that are made apparent by being held by gel. Since after the curling and crimping; the gel would be used to keep hair streaks visible and present throughout the day.

Apparel for gyaru fashion also varies by substyle and retail store; this choice of brands can denote which substyle one participates in. Japanese street fashion brands or western fast fashion brands with general gyaru aesthetics indicated one's substyle depending on their appearance in an outfit. Although some bought western luxury brands or even haute couture brands, most gravitated toward Japanese brands, depending on their style. Most of the apparel originated from Shibuya 109. A full outfit of only designer brands is not considered completely gyaru unless one tries for a specific substyle. Yet, even those who participate in the substyle of wearing designer items have different brands, regardless of whether the brands are Western or Japanese. They would generally mix different brands to create a gyaru look.

Substyles

An example of a Kogal with hair and makeup typical for the mid to late 1990s. This type also falls under Ganguro due to the strong tan.

Gyaru wear a wide spectrum of styles that vary in their overall design. Fashion and clothes associated with the subculture are also referred to as Gyaru kei (Japanese: ギャル系); in Japanese or in romaji (gyaru kei), meaning they are "gyaru-type" or "classified as gyaru".

Amekaji

Amekaji is a style inspired by American culture; its name can be directly translated to "American casual". It is usually bright, fun, flamboyant and multi-colored. Inspired by fictionalized images of America, the clothes are generally looser than most of the other styles. They usually have many overlapping layers. Pieces found in Amekaji fashion include sweaters, bomber and Letterman jackets, t-shirts, shorts, jeans, overalls, cargo pants, tennis shoes, engineer boots, and Uggs. The fashion brands most associated with this substyle are ANAP, COCO*LULU, BLUE MOON BLUE and Wakatsuki Chinatsu. Wearing men's clothing is also common in Amekaji; COCO*LULU had a menswear line. The menswear brand Buzz Spunky is also a staple in Amekaji.

B-Gyaru

B-Gyaru[11][12] is a sub-style of Gyaru that draws inspiration from the baggy street style popularized by hip-hop artists.[13] The letter B in the name is derived from the terms B-Girl and B-Boy, which are commonly used for members of the hip-hop community.[14] B-Gyaru never gained widespread popularity in Japan and was mainly associated with the store Baby Shoop. Outside of Japan, reception of B-Gyaru is mixed; the debate over cultural appropriation of black American culture is a point of contention among many Western Gyaru.

Ganguro

Ganguro[15][16][17][18][19] also known as 黒ギャル (Kuro Gyaru):[20] is a gyaru style with artificially deep tanned skin and bleached hair, and makeup which tended to use white around the eyes and on the lips, and darker shades of color are sometimes seen on the eyes of ganguro. But white is the most often used eyeshadow for this substyle. Also, decorations such as glitter or flowers, such as hibiscus flower stickers, are added under the eyes. This style was popular in the late 1990s and early 2000s. The name ganguro is the mix of both the Japanese words (Kao) and (Kuro), these Kanji translate to the words face and black but the term that gyaru use for this substyle is written in Katakana.

Examples of a Yamanba and Gyaru during the early 2000s

Gyaru mama

Gyaru mama[21] are teenage gyaru or women who continued with this style even after having children. BBC News states: 'Gal mama are young mothers who refuse to shed their gal-ness'.[22][23] They also would clothe their children in the same style, meaning a boy would look like a gyaru-o while girls would look like a gyaru, but the style would depend on the mother's personal choice of style or which subculture she belonged to. For example, Aki, a gyaru leader of her own gyarusa named 'Brillant Lab' reveals how these mothers dressed and how they chose their children's outfits, hair and hair color to correspond to their mother's outfit. In other words, the child became a gyaru mama's accessory. It is also telling when the leader of this gyarusa is a single mother which is generally how most of these gyaru mothers end up or are after pregnancy.[24][25] These mothers might parent differently than most in Japan; their parenting style can be quite contemporary for the Japanese societal norms, perceptions and it has been said that it is less stressful for their children.[26]

Gyaru-o

Gyaru-o[27] is a male gyaru.[28] typically has a similar style to gyaru, including high-volume styled hair, similar fashion, and tanned skin.[29] Also written in Japanese as ギャルオ (gyaruo); as the Kanji in front of gyaru is the Japanese word for man, (otoko).

Hime gyaru

Hime gyaru[30] also known as 姫系 (hime kei), is one of the more over the top and one of the most expensive styles of dress of any category since it is considered essential to buy brand names such as: MA*RS, Jesus Diamante, La Parfait or Princess Melody. The substyle hime gyaru is largely based on the Rococo era, as the Japanese word (hime) which in English is the word for lit.'princess'. Gyaru who wear this style often wear dresses or skirts in pink or other pastel colors with many laces and bows. Rose patterns, rosettes, pearls, and crown motifs are also common. Headpieces range from large bow clips with pearls to headbands with a rose accent, while the hair is either bleached in a specific color, crimped in a bouffant at the top and curled or wigs/extension are worn to create that スジ盛り or (sujimori)-styled hair. This make-up style has even more exaggerated eyes than the typical gyaru. Hime gyaru includes not only clothes, but many girls see it as a way of life and make or buy custom-made decor for their homes. The style blossomed in the early 2000s but has since declined or turned more casual; this version is referred to as hime kaji, but this style mostly uses the Japanese fashion brand Liz Lisa whose appearance and clothes are more casual than hime gyaru. Hime gyaru participants rather use the obsolete brands such as Princess Melody, La Parfait or Jesus Diamante. Though this substyle currently persists in some fashion groups or in their circles. Not to be confused with Lolita fashion.

A woman from Susukino wearing a yukata in 2010. She is characterized as Gyaru by her hair and make-up.

Kogyaru

Kogyaru[31][32][33] defines those who wear Japanese high-school student uniforms to represent the past kogyaru who wore them. These uniforms would resemble them but with slight alterations such as color or presentation of the garment. Or they would be an exact replica of an actual high school uniform which could be purchased at a burusera. But the term itself did not first start as a pass time to pretend or dress as a high school student but from actual female Japanese high school students in the late 1980s and early 1990s, around the Heisei era; they wore this style during or after school sessions.[34][35] They would shorten their skirts from their high school uniform protocol length to give them a miniskirt appearance and length and wear loose socks. These socks are from an American brand, E.G. Smith, the originators of these socks.[36][37][38] That made them longer and appear larger by loosening them to the point of almost arriving at the level of their shoes. They also had dyed hair, accessorized their high school bags with danglers or mixed educational material with cosmetic products and a portable mirror. Although some of these were prohibited in Japanese high schools, some would wear it only after school but others would do it even in school and be warned for doing so. Namie Amuro is said to be not only the one who popularized the tanned appearance, but also as having started the kogyaru trend during the Heisei era.[39][40] The term kogyaru is derived from the mixing of the Japanese word (ko) which means child in English and the word gyaru[41][42] It is noteworthy that due to the Japanese educational system's regulations on uniforms, the uniforms varied by school, indicating higher standards in terms of grades or wealth. This mattered in kogyaru fashion.[43] The term of kogyaru is closely related to 女子高校生 (joshi kōkōsei) or in English would be directly translated to "female high school student". It uses the word 女子 (joshi) which is girl and 高校生 (kōkōsei) highschooler in English. The importance of these two words is that often on social network services Kanji would be abbreviated to "JK" because the first letters used in these Kanji are the letters J and K. In this case, these letters combined are not used to convey or be internet speech to refer to joking but is a direct abbreviation for the word joshi kōkōsei. This subculture of kogyaru fashion is closely related to JK business and compensated dating or enjo kōsai.[44][45][46]

Ora ora gyaru

Ora ora gyaru[47][48] is one that is most often compared to or confused with ane gyaru due to the fact that both styles were brought to the Japanese public's eye attention through the bōsōzoku, yankī and Japanese biker gang culture with gyaru makeup and style. The gyaru magazine of choice is Soul Sister. This style can be understood by its style choice of apparel, such as track suits, greater use of denim and a generally more masculine look. The style is also known as オラオラギャル (ora ora gyaru) and 悪羅系 (ora kei). These girls were often seen driving as a couple, were or are mechanics, and sometimes ride bikes. They tend to have tattoos and piercings. This is not only done to look rebellious but the style caters to girls who live on the edge.

A type of Hime Gyaru in 2010. The voluminous curly hair in combination with the pink frilly outfit is typical for the style.

Yamanba

Yamanba[49] also often shortened to マンバ (Manba):[50] is an exaggerated style characterized by an extremely dark artificial tan, messy bleached-white hair, and white makeup. Yamanba is said to be inspired by the Japanese yōkai Yama-uba (山姥) lit.'mountain witch woman', an unkempt old woman with dark skin, white hair, and a dirty, unkempt appearance, who would disguise herself as a beautiful young woman to lure male victims. Like ganguro, the style was often considered to be a joke and deliberately unattractive, with some yamanba saying they liked the trend "because it looked stupid."[51] Yamanba fashion attracted a reputation as being "unclean" or delinquent.[52]

Micro styles

Micro styles of gyaru are styles which are less common or just were trends, have declined in popularity or have become obsolete.

Bohemian gyaru

Bohemian gyaru is a gyaru substyle which is rarely worn and is considered less of an actual style and more of a seasonal outfit for those who participate in broader gyaru fashion. It is less of a substyle restrained by rules, being mostly worn in the spring and summer seasons or for those that live in warmer climates. Since the clothing pieces are of a lighter textile, only a jacket is used for layering, and woven leather accessories such as a belt and shoes are more often seen than in other styles. Sandals are often used in this style. Unlike most of the other substyles which use more apparel that easily hold warmth, such as apparel with thicker textile or woollen materials and multiple layers of clothes for one outfit, this style is also denoted by its use of airy, denim, flower-patterned, tie-dyed and nomadic textile motifs in most of its outfits. Most apparel pieces are either maxi-dresses or knee-length dresses. The style seems inspired by late 1960s hippie fashion and takes its name from the Bohemian style of fashion.

Chola gyaru

Just as the styles of B-gyaru, rasuta gyaru, bibinba and even ganguro can be seen as disrespectful or even harmful by those belonging to the groups being emulated in these particular sub-styles; one style such as rasuta gyaru is heavily influenced by Rastafari culture; the question remains, is it appropriation or appreciation of another culture—particularly the culture of marginalized groups. For chola-gyaru, the sub-culture it is emulating is already contentious within the larger Chicano culture and the term comes with its own complicated history; the book Comentarios Reales de los Incas has a quote that portrays how the actual word came to be and how it was utilized then in 1609: 'The child of a Black male and an Indian female, or of an Indian male and Black female, they call mullato and mullata. The children of these they call cholos. Cholo is a word from the Windward Islands. It means dog, not of the purebred variety, but of very disreputable origin; and the Spaniards use it for insult and vituperation.'[53][54] The style itself takes enormous influence from Chicano as many chola-gyaru wear apparel clothes that are more often than not the same as Chicano apparel or street wear. A combination of tartans, flannels, oversized t-shirts and tank tops. Accessorized with bandanas, a baseball cap, dark sunglasses, gold chains and even tattoos; which still in present-day Japan is still considered a taboo due to its past connotations. Baggy jeans are a must. There is also a Japanese music artist who exemplifies both gyaru and Chicana culture, MoNa.[55][56] She has been interviewed and documented in the series from Refinery29: Style out there and also by The New York Times YouTube channel.[57][58]


Gyaru den

Gyaru den is a style of gyaru consisting of reviving gyaru through technology. It takes aspects of the gyaru fashion substyle and then makes use of technology as a way to revamp the style. The creators of this style have created all of their items themselves, which can be LED lights or synthesizers which are used on accessories such as necklaces, loose socks which are those mostly seen on kogyarus. They would create new and different apparel pieces from the regular gyaru clothing pieces since they are mixed with technological enhancements. The creators of this fashion substyle are both Kyoko from Japan and Mao from Thailand, who immigrated to Japan, and has a degree in engineering.[59][60]

Goshikku gyaru

Goshikku gyaru is a substyle in gyaru that often draws from Gothic fashion as its main inspiration. This substyle does not require the participant to tan themselves, unlike most of the other gyaru substyles. The makeup retains the same over exaggerated and dramatic false eyelash appearance but the makeup colors are more in line with Gothic fashion, as the colors are darker or even black, and white is more predominant than in the other substyles. The fashion motifs and pieces are generally studded, leather, ripped denim, mesh or fishnet apparel pieces with the most prominent apparel colors being black, white, red, purple and any color used in actual Gothic fashion. This substyle and rokku gyaru are often confused and labeled incorrectly between one another.

Haady gyaru

To understand the substyle haady gyaru,[61] one must first understand its name's origin. The Japanese word 派手 or written in romaji as (hade) which in English can translate to either "flashy" or "vulgar". This substyle is the epitome of this: by its name alone this can be understood. The difference of spelling is simply for youth factor, by accentuating the vowels and adding the letter 'Y' to also not be too obvious about it. Examples of this gyaru fashion substyle resemble the work of artist Lisa Frank due to their use of motifs and color, with bright neon colors from across the entire spectrum. Leopard, cheetah, zebra or anything in printed patterns to early 1990s to 2000s hip hop-inspired fashion such has 'McBling'. Clothing shape varies from very loose fitting to tight but the colors are never toned down. In terms of makeup, this gyaru substyle and the substyles that range from ganguro to further are the only ones with the use of more pop in terms of color while most gyaru substyles use either muted to seemingly girly colors. Most of these would be pastel colors, such as pastel pink. Creation of this gyaru substyle has been credited to the egg model Kaoru Watanabe as she not only created it but also has her own brand of this fashion, JSG, the acronym for Japanese Super Girl.

Ishoku hada gyaruedit

Ishoku hada gyaru[62][63] is a gyaru style that takes ganguro to an even higher level than manba or yamanba. Instead of someone making their skin twice as dark as their actual skin color, it involves the use of face paint to seem as if the participant had physically dipped themselves in a colorful paint, to resemble an extraterrestrial, but with the same essential style of gyaru makeup. This micro-style can be seemingly placed as a form of body art. The translation of this substyle is unique skin gyaru in English. The creator of this style, Miyako Akane states in an Arte interview:[64][65] 'I decided to create this style since the fact that westerns have different hair and skin colors compared to the stereotypical Japanese features of pale clear skin and black hair, so when we want to do this we have to do something drastic. So, by changing our skin color or painting it we get to liberate ourselves; it is like a therapy from makeup, we are allowed to choose our hair color and skin color'. She also states that 'There are many mixed marriage children that are subject to a number of prejudices because of their skin color or their hair color; that is why I want to help by saying loud and strong that everyone is allowed to be whom they want to be.' She also stated in an online interview[66] that: 'I decided to create this style based upon by many things apart from gyaru, but also Harajuku fashion and of course the idea of extraterrestrials; of course it is かわいいギャル (kawaii gyaru).' In a Kotaku interview[67] she stated that she has 'longed for the interesting skin tones seen in video-games, anime, and movies'. This gyaru substyle has been promoted in egg magazine.

Romanbaedit

Romanba[68] is based around romantic overtones and aesthetics. It keeps the manba makeup, the deep tan, style and aesthetic to a great effect, adding a romantic aspect to their apparel. Their choice of apparel pieces vary and manba, as they would replace the colors worn with dolly pastels, pink lace and sundresses that are frilled. Romanba gyarus instead of accessorizing with Lilo & Stitch, they instead accessorise mostly with characters from Disney's The Aristocats with the character Marie often used as a motif. The primary Romanba fashion brands are Pinky Girls and Liz Lisa. Tanning is achieved mainly through make-up and deep-colored tanning lotions or bronzer; sunbeds are not used in as they try to keep their complexion deep but not darker than intended. They appreciate more toned down things in life than just clubbing.

Related stylesedit

Kyabajōedit

Kyabajō[69][70] is similar to agejo as it has been inspired since the publication of koakuma ageha, which enticed and engrossed women to work in Kabukichō as a hostess or a kyabajō. They dress in a particular style that makes them mostly wear dresses that are revealing but said to be less, from the Japanese brand MA*RS or from the Jesus Diamante. As stated before, this style resembles agejo as the participants have the same attire and also have long fake decorative nails. An exponent is a gyaru now known by her title 元No.1キャバ嬢 (Moto nanbā 1 kyabajō) or Former No.1 Miss kyabajō; Emiri Aizawa (愛沢えみり).[71][72][73][74][75]

Mago gyaruedit

Mago gyaru is used to define middle schoolers who follow gyaru or kogyaru fashion. The phrase literally translates to "grandchild gyaru".[76] It is sometimes referred to as 中学校ギャル (chūgakkō gyaru, lit.'junior high school gyaru').[77]

Neo gyaruedit

Neo gyaru[78][79][80][81][82][83] was coined for gyaru who wanted to revitalize the style during the 2010s during its decline. By the time the style reached popularity and people had noticed its existence, the community of gyaru reacted to it differently than expected; what came was an antiquated, radical and older or more fanatical gyaru accustomed to seeing gyaru in a different ideal and some have even shunned the style. This reaction can also be connected with the creator of the style and magazine for this substyle neo gyaru being the known as #N. This substyle and magazine have received backlash due to use of black, Latino and Hindu culture and culturally exclusive accessories such as the Bindi.[84] Yet Alisa Ueno herself has stated in an interview on her own blog that herself, her own brand FIG&VIPER and the style she is representing within that brand have nothing to do with the gyaru subculture or fashion as a whole and the style was a probable misconception from magazines and Japanese television programs implying that it was.[85][86] Even though she participated in the gyaru subculture when she was young, as a model, she has stated in her own blog, 'The fashion has nothing to do with her brand.'[87] But those who were wearing said fashion were not using the same fashion style as before or in its traditional form as a substyle; from its apparel to their makeup. Previous, older and newcomers to the gyaru fashion substyle perceived it as not following the traditional gyaru look or values of the gyaru subculture. To them it seemed more western or even resembling grunge wear[88] even though the style may resemble SeaPunk more than the actual grunge fashion it is said to resemble. The makeup was also considerably darker in terms of lipstick and the eyeshadow using more metallic or holographic textures and colors compared to earlier styles of gyaru and their use of makeup which did not use these textures.

Seiso gyaruedit

Seiso gyaru[89][90] was coined during the decline of gyaru subculture and new gyaru looks during the 2010s. The naming of this substyle derives from the Japanese word 清楚 (seiso) which in English can be translated as 'neat', 'polished' and 'clean'. This style is also interchangeable with shiro gyaru as they were both formed through the resurgence of the Japanese bihaku within the gyaru subculture.

Gyaru overseasedit

Often referred to as foreign gyaru or western gyaru and online as 外人ギャル (gaijin gyaru). Women and even men outside Japan who participate in gyaru; "western" gyaru also includes countries outside of the West, such as in the Middle East. This includes women who have gravitated towards this fashion by going or doing gyaru and its substyles and men who gravitate to gyaru-o. Western gyaru or gaijin gyaru created their own communities or groups and forums.

Outside of Japan, there are websites critical of western gyaru participants. These websites ridicule people's looks or appearance by giving them advice on how to better wear the style. A documentary has been made on YouTube, about three different Japanese street fashion styles and three participants and the negative reactions they received.[91] Even so, in 2011, these western or gaijin gyaru held their first event, the Gaijin Gyaru Awards which was created by an English gaijin gyaru with the online username Lhouraii Li. It was done to spread awareness of this style and to bring positivity back into the western gaijin gyaru community.[92][93] These events were done with Lhouraii Li and they were mostly done online. They were ended in 2014 by the creator of the event, Lhouraii Li, due to online backlash against her online award show. There would not be another contest until 2016 where they were made into an event in the Netherlands and were broadcast via livestream.[94] Three years would pass until this community award ceremony would be brought back in 2019 in the United Kingdom,[95] just as in 2016 this was an in-person event and was only made into a live broadcast online for those not able to join the event. These contests were made so that one could vote for contestants within categories or subcategories of this fashion and gain Internet attention from peers by winning within a category.

During the early 2000s, most anime conventions saw a glorification of gyaru and gaijin gyaru presence as they held gatherings, meetings or events usually organized by their gyarusā and peers in these conventions in their country or where the actual gathering would be held. International and national meetings among members of the gaijin gyaru community were held on an almost annual basis.[96][97]

As of late 2018 to early 2019 there was an increase in activity for the gaijin gyaru community caused by the comeback of egg magazine as well as a resurgence of gyaru in Japan.[98] This has affected the gaijin gyaru community as well, as a new gaijin gyaru magazine, "Papillon", was published beginning in October 2019.[99] The foreign magazine Gyaru-go also made a comeback. In 2021, the gaijin gyaru magazine 'GAL VIP' had an article written about their magazines by a Japanese website; it is the oldest gaijin gyaru magazines addressed and not the latest.[100] Also in August 2021 a six-minute documentary on western gyaru or gaijin gyaru has discussed the substyle of manba on YouTube.

As stated before, the gaijin gyaru magazine Papillon was published in 2019, but there were two predecessors: Gyaru-go who only published on April 12, 2016, and Gal-VIP on September 1, 2012. They are both online magazines while Papillon has online and purchasable issues.

Activitiesedit

Dancingedit

A regular pastime for gyaru is パラパラ (parapara), a dance performed mostly with hands and legs going back and forth from left to right. When performed in a group, everyone should be evidently synchronized. It is mostly danced with Eurobeat music or covers of other songs but with the aforementioned Eurobeat remix.

One of the most famous parapara songs and its tagline, 'GET WILD & BE SEXY,' is synonymous with gyaru culture and was a famous eurobeat song of the same name, by the group Eurocker-Girlz also abbreviated to E-Girlz.[101] There are many songs that can be danced to parapara.

Hobbiesedit

2007 purikura stylus pen screen

A common gyaru hobby is Purikura, known in Japan as プリクラ. Purikura booths are mostly located in the electronic district of Tokyo, Akihabara, where they are a popular activity for both casual gyaru enthusiasts and professional gyaru models. In addition to being a hobby, purikura booths can be used as a way into magazines. Photos taken in these booths are used by magazines to scout for amateur models (who are often readers of these gyaru magazines themselves), referred to as 読者モデル (dokusha moderu) or ドクモモデル (dokumo moderu) in Japanese.[102]

デコ電 (Decoden), also known as 携帯芸術 (keitai art), is another gyaru-associated hobby. Decoden is a compound of 'deco', a shortened form of decorative and 'den', a shortening of denwa (電話), the word for 'phone' in Japanese. Originating in Japan, decoden involves the decoration of mobile phones and other electronic devices with materials such as acrylic, rhinestones, Swarovski crystals, silicone and polymer clay. Denwa decoration is often ostentatious and makes use of 3D motifs as well as media influences. Decoden has also been used for events. Acer Inc. held a decoden contest for the release of their Acer Aspire One netbook laptops in 2009. The contest involved three contestants presenting their respective decoden designs for the netbooks in addition to a popularity poll.[103]

Events and meetingsedit

A group of gyaru, probably a gyaru circle

A group of gyaru who regularly assemble is called a gyaru circle or a ギャルサークル (gyarusākuru), but can also be shortened to ギャルサー (gyarusā). Gyarusā vary by their members' gender, fashion style, region of origin, and age. There are two types of circles: なごーさ (nago-sa), small groups based around casual gatherings, and イヴェーさ (ivuē-sa), which plan, host, and have events with each other. The Japanese word イヴェー (ivuē) is a direct reference to the English word events. These events typically consist of clubbing, karaoké, purikura, going out to eat at fast food chains or restaurants, and flaunting their outfits to one another.[104] A gyarusā is also known as a gyaru unit.

One of the most famous gyarusā groups is Angeleek, which consisted of at least twelve members who predominantly wore ganguro. They have been promoted repeatedly in egg magazine and on national Japanese television. Another prominent gyarusā in the same district of Tokyo is Shibuya's НЯК, also known by their Japanese gyarusā name, 渋谷ギャルサー 「НЯК」. It boasted Shibuya's largest gyarusā, with over a thousand members. As of 2021, Nachu, the leader of this gyarusā, still has a website.[105][106] НЯК has also made their own music.[107] Gyarusā have seen a revival as of the 2010s with the creation of the newer group, Black Diamond.[108][109][110][111][112]

Cafésedit

Gyaru have their own themed cafés. Similar to maid cafés, waitresses wear gyaru attire and exhibit exaggerated personas in addition to other gyaru-themed rituals. For instance, a general rule in gyaru cafés is the prohibition of polite honorific speech 敬語 (keigo).[113] Other gyaru cafés, such as galcafé 10sion,[114][115] offer services such as the chance to wear gyaru makeup or receive a full gyaru makeover.[116] Another notable café targeted towards the gyaru subculture is Beauty Café by GirlsAward. Created by the prominent fashion event GirlsAward, this café employs gyaru reader models 読者モデル (dokusha moderu) as an additional draw.[117]

The Ganguro Café[118][119][120][121][122][123][124] in Shibuya, once the home of the gyaru and ganguro style, was closed in July 2018.[125][126][127]

Related mediaedit

Clothing brandsedit

[128][129]
  • Alba Rosa
  • ANAP[130]
  • Ank Rouge[131]
  • Ash & Diamonds[132]
  • Baby Doll
  • Baby Shoop[133][134]
  • Backs
  • Banana Chips
  • Barak
  • Black Queen
  • Zdroj:https://en.wikipedia.org?pojem=Gyaru
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