The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognised by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than 8,000 metres (26,247 ft) in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise definition of the criteria used to assess independence, and at times, the UIAA has considered whether the list should be expanded to 20 mountain peaks by including the major satellite peaks of eight-thousanders. All of the eight-thousanders are located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia, and their summits lie in an altitude known as the death zone.

From 1950 to 1964, all 14 eight-thousanders were summited by expedition climbers in the summer (the first to be summited was Annapurna I in 1950, and the last was Shishapangma in 1964), and from 1980 to 2021, all 14 were summited in the winter (the first to be summited in winter being Mount Everest in 1980, and the last being K2 in 2021). On a variety of statistical techniques, the deadliest eight-thousander is Annapurna I (one death – climber or climber support – for every three summiters), followed by K2 and Nanga Parbat (one death for every four to five summiters), and then Dhaulagiri and Kangchenjunga (one for every six to seven summiters).

The first person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders was the Italian climber Reinhold Messner in 1986, who did not use any supplementary oxygen. In 2010, Edurne Pasaban, a Basque Spanish mountaineer became the first woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders, but with the aid of supplementary oxygen. In 2011, Austrian Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner became the first woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders without the aid of supplementary oxygen. In 2013, South Korean Kim Chang-ho climbed all 14 eight-thousanders in 7 years and 310 days, without the aid of supplementary oxygen. In July 2023, Kristin Harila and Tenjen Lama Sherpa set a speed record of 92 days for climbing all 14 eight-thousanders, with supplementary oxygen. In July 2022, Sanu Sherpa became the first person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders twice, which he did from 2006 to 2022.

Issues with false summits (e.g. Cho Oyu, Annapurna I and Dhaulagiri), or separated dual summits (e.g. Shishapangma and Manaslu), have led to disputed claims of ascents.^[1] In 2022, after several years of research, a team of experts reported that they could only confirm evidence that three climbers, Ed Viesturs, Veikka Gustafsson and Nirmal Purja, had stood on the true geographic summit of all 14 eight-thousanders.^[2]

Climbing history

First ascents

The first recorded attempt on an eight-thousander was when Albert F. Mummery, Geoffrey Hastings and J. Norman Collie tried to climb Pakistan's Nanga Parbat in 1895. The attempt failed when Mummery and two Gurkhas, Ragobir Thapa and Goman Singh, were killed by an avalanche.^[3]

The first successful ascent of an eight-thousander was by the French climbers Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, who reached the summit of Annapurna on 3 June 1950 using expedition climbing techniques as part of the 1950 French Annapurna expedition.^[4] Due to its location in Tibet, Shishapangma was the last eight-thousander to be ascended, which was completed by a Chinese team led by Xu Jing in 1964 (Tibet's mountains were closed by China to foreigners until 1978).^[5]

The first winter ascent of an eight-thousander was by a Polish team led by Andrzej Zawada on Mount Everest, with Leszek Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki reaching the summit on 17 February 1980;^[6] all-Polish teams would complete nine of the first fourteen winter ascents of eight-thousanders.^[7] The final eight-thousander to be climbed in winter was K2, whose summit was ascended by a 10-person Nepalese team on 16 January 2021.^[8]

Only two climbers have completed more than one first ascent of an eight-thousander, Hermann Buhl (Nanga Parbat and Broad Peak) and Kurt Diemberger (Broad Peak and Dhaulagiri). Buhl's summit of Nanga Parbat in 1953 is notable as being the only solo first ascent of one of the eight-thousanders. The Polish climber Jerzy Kukuczka is noted for creating over ten new routes on various eight-thousander mountains.^[7] Italian climber Simone Moro made the first winter ascent of four eight-thousanders (Shishapangma, Makalu, Gasherbrum II, and Nanga Parbat),^[9] while three Polish climbers have each made three first winter ascents of an eight-thousander, Maciej Berbeka (Cho Oyu, Manaslu, and Broad Peak), Krzysztof Wielicki (Everest, Kangchenjunga, and Lhotse) and Jerzy Kukuczka (Dhaulagiri I, Kangchenjunga, and Annapurna I).^[7]

All 14

On 16 October 1986, Italian Reinhold Messner became the first person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders. In 1987, Polish climber Jerzy Kukuczka became the second person to accomplish this feat.^[7] Messner summited each of the 14 peaks without the aid of bottled oxygen, a feat that was only repeated by the Swiss Erhard Loretan nine years later in 1995 (Kukuczka had used supplementary oxygen while summiting Everest and on no other eight-thousander^[7]).^[11]

On 17 May 2010, Spanish climber Edurne Pasaban became the first woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders.^[12] In August 2011, Austrian climber Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner became the first woman to climb the 14 eight-thousanders without the use of supplementary oxygen.^[13][14]

The first couple and team to summit all 14 eight-thousanders were the Italians Nives Meroi (who was the second woman to accomplish this feat without supplementary oxygen), and her husband Romano Benet [it] on 11 May 2017.^[15][16] The couple climbed alpine style, without the use of supplementary oxygen or other support.^[16][17]

On 23 May 2023, Nepali guide Kami Rita summitted Everest for the 28th time (a record for Everest), becoming the first-ever person to climb an eight-thousander 38 times.^[18] In July 2022, Sanu Sherpa became the first person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders twice.^[19] He started with Cho Oyu in 2006, and completed the double by summiting Gasherbrum II in July 2022.^[20]

On 20 May 2013, South Korean climber Kim Chang-ho set a new speed record of climbing all 14 eight-thousanders, without the use of supplementary oxygen, in 7 years and 310 days. On 29 October 2019, the British-Nepali climber Nirmal Purja set a speed record of 6 months and 6 days for climbing all 14 eight-thousanders with the use of supplementary oxygen.^[21][22][23] On 27 July 2023, Kristin Harila and Tenjen Lama Sherpa set a new speed record of 92 days for climbing all 14 eight-thousanders with supplementary oxygen.^[24][25]

Deadliest

The eight-thousanders are the world's deadliest mountains. The extreme altitude and the fact that the summits of all eight-thousanders lie in the Death Zone mean that climber mortality (or death rate) is high.^[31] Two metrics are quoted to establish a death rate (i.e. broad and narrow) that are used to rank the eight-thousanders in order of deadliest.^[30][32]

• Broad death rate: The first metric is the ratio of successful climbers summiting to total deaths^[c] on the mountain over a given period.^[30] The Guinness Book of World Records uses this metric to name Annapurna I as the deadliest eight-thousander, and the world's deadliest mountain with roughly one person dying for every three people who successfully summit, i.e. a ratio of circa 30%.^[33] Using consistent data from 1950 to 2012, mountaineering statistician Eberhard Jurgalski (see table) used this metric to show Annapurna is the deadliest mountain (31.9%), followed by K2 (26.5%), Nanga Parbat (20.3%), Dhaulagiri (15.4%) and Kangchenjunga (14.1%).^[30] Other statistical sources including MountainIQ, used a mix of data periods from 1900 to Spring 2021 but had similar results showing Annapurna still being the deadliest mountain (27.2%), followed by K2 (22.8%), Nanga Parbat (20.75%), Kangchenjunga (15%), and Dhaulagiri (13.5%).^[32][31] Cho Oyu was the safest at 1.4%.^[30][32]
• Narrow death rate: The drawback of the first metric is that it includes the deaths of any support climbers or climbing sherpas that went above base camp in assisting the climb; therefore, rather than being the probability that a climber will die attempting to summit an eight-thousander, it is more akin to the total human cost in getting a climber to the summit.^[28] In the Himalayan Database (HDB) tables, the climber (or member) "Death Rate" is the ratio of deaths above base camp, of all climbers who were hoping to summit and who went above base camp (calculated for 1950 to 2009), and is closer to a true probability of death (see table below).^[28] The data is only for the Nepalese Himalaya and therefore does not include K2 or Nanga Parbat.^[28] HDB estimates the probability of death for a climber attempting the summit of an eight-thousander is still highest for Annapurna I (4%), followed by Kangchenjunga (3%) and Dhaulagiri (3%); the safest is still Cho Oyu at 0.6%.^[28]

The tables from the HDB for eight-thousanders also show that the death rate of climbers for the period 1990 to 2009 (e.g. modern expeditions), is roughly half that of the combined 1950 to 2009 period, i.e. climbing is becoming safer for the climbers attempting the summit.^[28]

List of first ascents

From 1950 to 1964, all 14 of the eight-thousanders were summited in the summer (the first was Annapurna I in 1950, and the last was Shishapangma in 1964), and from 1980 to 2021, all 14 were summited in the winter (the first being Everest in 1980, and the last being K2 in 2021).

First ascent and first winter ascent for each of the 14 eight-thousanders^[26][27]

Mountain[26]				First ascent[26]		First winter ascent[26]
Name	Height[34]	Prom.[34]	Country	Date	Summiter(s)	Date	Summiter(s)
Everest	8,849 m (29,032 ft)[35]	8,849 m (29,032 ft)	Nepal China	29 May 1953	Edmund Hillary Tenzing Norgay on British expedition	17 February 1980	Krzysztof Wielicki Leszek Cichy
K2	8,611 m (28,251 ft)	4,020 m (13,190 ft)	Pakistan China[36]	31 July 1954	Achille Compagnoni Lino Lacedelli on Italian expedition	16 January 2021[8]	Nirmal Purja[40] Gelje Sherpa Mingma David Sherpa Mingma Gyalje Sherpa Sona Sherpa Mingma Tenzi Sherpa Pem Chhiri Sherpa Dawa Temba Sherpa Kili Pemba Sherpa Dawa Tenjing Sherpa
Kangchenjunga	8,586 m (28,169 ft)	3,922 m (12,867 ft)	Nepal India[41]	25 May 1955	George Band Joe Brown on British expedition	11 January 1986	Krzysztof Wielicki Jerzy Kukuczka
Lhotse	8,516 m (27,940 ft)	610 m (2,000 ft)	Nepal China	18 May 1956	Fritz Luchsinger Ernst Reiss	31 December 1988	Krzysztof Wielicki
Makalu	8,485 m (27,838 ft)	2,378 m (7,802 ft)	Nepal China	15 May 1955	Jean Couzy Lionel Terray on French expedition	9 February 2009	Simone Moro Denis Urubko
Cho Oyu	8,188 m (26,864 ft)	2,344 m (7,690 ft)	Nepal China	19 October 1954	Joseph Joechler [de] Pasang Dawa Lama Herbert Tichy	12 February 1985	Maciej Berbeka Maciej Pawlikowski
Dhaulagiri I	8,167 m (26,795 ft)	3,357 m (11,014 ft)	Nepal	13 May 1960	Kurt Diemberger Peter Diener [de] Nawang Dorje Nima Dorje Ernst Forrer Albin Schelbert	21 January 1985	Andrzej Czok Jerzy Kukuczka
Manaslu	8,163 m (26,781 ft)	3,092 m (10,144 ft)	Nepal	9 May 1956	Toshio Imanishi Gyalzen Norbu [de]	12 January 1984	Maciej Berbeka Ryszard Gajewski
Nanga Parbat	8,125 m (26,657 ft)	4,608 m (15,118 ft)	Pakistan	3 July 1953	Hermann Buhl on German–Austrian expedition	26 February 2016	Muhammad Ali Sadpara Simone Moro Alex Txikon [es]
Annapurna I	8,091 m (26,545 ft)	2,984 m (9,790 ft)	Nepal	3 June 1950	Maurice Herzog Louis Lachenal on French expedition	3 February 1987	Jerzy Kukuczka Artur Hajzer
Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak)	8,080 m (26,510 ft)	2,155 m (7,070 ft)	Pakistan China	5 July 1958	Andrew Kauffman Pete Schoening	9 March 2012	Adam Bielecki Janusz Gołąb [pl]
Broad Peak	8,051 m (26,414 ft)	1,701 m (5,581 ft)	Pakistan China	9 June 1957	Fritz Wintersteller Marcus Schmuck Kurt Diemberger Hermann Buhl	5 March 2013	Maciej Berbeka Adam Bielecki Tomasz Kowalski [pl] Artur Małek [pl]
Gasherbrum II	8,034 m (26,358 ft)	1,524 m (5,000 ft)	Pakistan China	7 July 1956	Fritz Moravec Josef Larch [de] Hans Willenpart [de]	2 February 2011	Simone Moro Denis Urubko Cory Richards [pl]
Shishapangma	8,027 m (26,335 ft)	2,897 m (9,505 ft)	China	2 May 1964	Xu Jing Chang Chun-yen Wang Fuzhou Chen San Cheng Tien-liang Wu Tsung-yue Sodnam Doji Migmar Trashi Doji Yonten	14 January 2005	Piotr Morawski Simone Moro

List of climbers of all 14

First to climb all 14 eight-thousanders

Reinhold Messner, first to climb all 14, and without oxygen

Edurne Pasaban, the first woman to climb all 14 after Oh Eun-sun's claim was disputed

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, the first woman to climb all 14 without oxygen

There is no single undisputed source or arbitrator for verified ascents of Himalayan eight-thousander peaks.

Various mountaineering journals, including the Alpine Journal and the American Alpine Journal, also maintain extensive records and archives on expeditions to the eight-thousanders, but do not always opine on disputed ascents, and nor do they maintain registers or lists of verified ascents of the eight-thousanders.^[1][42]

Elizabeth Hawley's The Himalayan Database,^[43] is considered as an important source for verified ascents for the Nepalese Himalayas.^[44][45] Online databases of Himalayan ascents pay close regard to The Himalayan Database, including the website AdventureStats.com,^[46] and the Eberhard Jurgalski List.^[1][42][47]

Verified ascents

The "No O₂" column lists people who have climbed all 14 eight-thousanders without supplementary oxygen.

List of climbers who have summited all 14 eight-thousanders^[48]

Order	Order (No O2)	Name	Period climbing eight-thousanders	Born	Age	Nationality
1	1	Reinhold Messner	1970–1986	1944	42	Italian
2		Jerzy Kukuczka	1979–1987	1948	39	Polish
3	2	Erhard Loretan	1982–1995	1959	36	Swiss
4	[49]	Carlos Carsolio	1985–1996	1962	33	Mexican
5		Krzysztof Wielicki	1980–1996	1950	46	Polish
6	3	Juanito Oiarzabal	1985–1999	1956	43	Spanish
7		Sergio Martini	1983–2000	1949	51	Italian
8		Park Young-seok	1993–2001	1963	38	Korean
9		Um Hong-gil	1988–2001	1960[50]	40	Korean
10	4	Alberto Iñurrategi	1991–2002[51]	1968	33	Spanish
11		Han Wang-yong	1994–2003	1966	37	Korean
12	5[52]	Ed Viesturs	1989–2005	1959	46 Zdroj:https://en.wikipedia.org?pojem=Eight_thousander Text je dostupný za podmienok Creative Commons Attribution/Share-Alike License 3.0 Unported; prípadne za ďalších podmienok. Podrobnejšie informácie nájdete na stránke Podmienky použitia.  Navigácia: Veda > Analytika Antropológia Aplikované vedy Bibliometria Dejiny vedy Encyklopédie Filozofia vedy Forenzné vedy Humanitné vedy Knižničná veda Kryogenika Kryptológia Kulturológia Literárna veda Medzidisciplinárne oblasti Metódy kvantitatívnej analýzy Metavedy Metodika Metodológia vedy Náboženstvo a veda Náučná literatúra Podvody vo vede Popularizácia vedy Potravinárstvo Prírodné vedy Pseudoveda Scientometria Spoločenské vedy Teórie Teatrológia Technické vedy Technika Terminológia Umenie Výskum Veda Veda a technika podľa štátu Veda a technika podľa kontinentu Veda a technika podľa roka Veda v kozme Vedci Vedecká literatúra Vedecké databázy Vedecké experimenty Vedecké konferencie Vedecké metódy Vedecké ocenenia Vedecké organizácie Vedecké parky Vedeckí spisovatelia Vzdelávanie Záhady Príbuzné výrazy: Text je dostupný za podmienok Creative Commons Attribution/Share-Alike License 3.0 Unported; prípadne za ďalších podmienok. Podrobnejšie informácie nájdete na stránke Podmienky použitia. www.astronomia.sk | www.biologia.sk | www.botanika.sk | www.dejiny.sk | www.economy.sk | www.elektrotechnika.sk | www.estetika.sk | www.farmakologia.sk | www.filozofia.sk | Fyzika | www.futurologia.sk | www.genetika.sk | www.chemia.sk | www.lingvistika.sk | www.politologia.sk | www.psychologia.sk | www.sexuologia.sk | www.sociologia.sk | www.veda.sk I www.zoologia.sk