IFSC Climbing World Cup - Biblioteka.sk

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IFSC Climbing World Cup
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Anna Stöhr at the Boulder Worldcup 2012

The IFSC Climbing World Cup is a series of competition climbing events held during the year at various locations around the world, organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). At each event, the athletes compete in three disciplines: lead, bouldering, and speed. The number of events varies from year to year, and the winners for each discipline are decided by the points accumulated in the year.

The first World Cup was held in 1989 and included only lead competition climbing events. Speed climbing was introduced in 1998, and bouldering in 1999. For 18 seasons, from 1989 to 2006, World Cups were held under the auspices of the International Council for Competition Climbing which was part of the UIAA; they were called UIAA Climbing World Cups. Since 2007, they have been held under the auspices of the IFSC.[1]

Scoring system

Individual disciplines

At the end of each World Cup competition, a trophy is awarded to the winner, the top three athletes are awarded gold, bronze, and silver medals, and the top six athletes are awarded prize money. As of 2022,[2] the top 80 competitors of individual World Cup competitions are eligible to accrue points. Tied competitors are awarded the average of the points allocated for the tied rank positions, rounded down to two decimal places.

Ranking 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15
Points 1000 805 690 610 545 495 455 415 380 350 325 300 280 260 240
Ranking 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30
Points 220 205 185 170 155 145 130 120 105 95 84 73 63 56 48
Ranking 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44-45 46
Points 42 37 33 30 27 24 21 19 17 15 14 13 12 11 10
Ranking 47-48 49-50 51-53 54-56 57-59 60-63 64-68 69-74 75-80
Points 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

For each discipline (lead, bouldering and speed), the points awarded to each athlete are added together throughout the World Cup series in order to determine an overall World Cup ranking. If an athlete participates in all competitions in a discipline, their worst result is discarded (provided that IFSC organizes at least 6 competitions for that season). At the end of the season, the athlete with highest ranking in each discipline will be considered to be the overall winner of the World Cup series, and will be awarded a trophy. The athletes ranking second and third will be awarded a plate.[3]

National team ranking

At the end of each competition, a national team ranking is determined, for each discipline, by adding the ranking points of the three highest ranked individual team members. For each discipline (lead, bouldering and speed), the points awarded to each team are added together throughout the World Cup series in order to determine the overall team ranking. If a team participates in all competitions in a discipline, its worst result is discarded (provided that IFSC organizes at least 6 competitions for that season). At the end of the season, the team with highest overall ranking is awarded a trophy.

Combined ranking

Janja Garnbret's results in 2017
Discipline Overall
score
Overall
ranking
Lead 665 1
Bouldering 470 2
Speed 0
Combined 1135 1

For each season, results obtained by each athlete across events and across disciplines (Lead, Bouldering and Speed) are considered to determine a combined ranking. At the end of the season, prizes are awarded to the top three athletes. The combined title was first introduced in 1998, together with the first speed event.[4] Bouldering was introduced in the following year.

From 1998 to 2017, the combined score for each athlete was obtained by adding together the overall World Cup scores obtained by that athlete in at least two different disciplines. For instance, in 2017 Janja Garnbret won the combined title with a combined score of 1135 points, which was the sum of the overall scores she obtained in Lead and Bouldering. Since she competed in no Speed event, her score in that discipline was zero.

Jakob Schubert's results in 2018
Discipline Selected
event
Rankings
General Relative
Lead Villars 1 1
Arco 1 1
Bouldering Meringen 4 3
Munich 3 2
Speed Wujiang 27 2
Xiamen 26 4
Product of relative rankings 48

Since 2018, more complex rules were applied to determine the combined score.[5] Only athletes participating in at least two competitions in each discipline (i.e. 2 in Bouldering, 2 in Lead, and 2 in Speed) were eligible for the combined title. For each World Cup event, rankings were adjusted by discarding non-eligible athletes. Since they were relative to a selected subset of athletes (the eligible ones), these adjusted rankings were called relative rankings, as opposed to the general rankings applied to the whole set of participants. If an eligible athlete participated in more than two competitions in a discipline, only the best two results in that discipline were considered. For each eligible athlete, the relative rankings obtained in the selected six events were multiplied together to determine a combined score. Athletes were ranked according to their combined score in ascending order. Namely, the athlete with the lowest score was awarded the combined title. For instance, in 2018 Jakob Schubert won the Combined World Cup with a score of 48 points, determined as shown in the table.

In 2019, individual combined events were introduced in the World Cup series, where participants are required to compete in all disciplines (Bouldering, Lead and Speed) and medals are awarded based on their combined results.[6] Nevertheless, at the end of the season, combined World Cup rankings will be determined as well, with the same method applied in 2018, based on results across disciplines obtained by each athlete in six selected events.

Men's results

Complete rankings starting from the 1991 season are available on the IFSC web site.[7]

Lead

Year Winner Second Third
1989 United Kingdom Simon Nadin France Didier Raboutou United Kingdom Jerry Moffatt
1990 France François Legrand France Jacky Godoffe United States Jim Karn
1991 France François Legrand (2) France François Lombard Japan Yuji Hirayama
1992 France François Legrand (3) Italy Luca Zardini France Jean-Baptiste Tribout
1993 France François Legrand (4) France François Petit Japan Yuji Hirayama
1994 France François Lombard France François Legrand France Jean-Baptiste Tribout
1995 France François Petit France François Legrand France Arnaud Petit
1996 France Arnaud Petit France François Petit Italy Cristian Brenna
1997 France François Legrand (5) France Arnaud Petit France François Petit
1998 Japan Yuji Hirayama Italy Cristian Brenna Ukraine Yevgen Kryvosheytsev
1999 France François Petit (2) France François Legrand Germany Andreas Bindhammer
2000 Japan Yuji Hirayama (2) France Alexandre Chabot Italy Cristian Brenna
2001 France Alexandre Chabot France Gérome Pouvreau Czech Republic Tomáš Mrázek
2002 France Alexandre Chabot (2) Czech Republic Tomáš Mrázek France Gérome Pouvreau
2003 France Alexandre Chabot (3) Spain Ramón Julián Puigblanque France François Auclair
2004 Czech Republic Tomáš Mrázek France Alexandre Chabot Italy Flavio Crespi
2005 Italy Flavio Crespi Netherlands Jorg Verhoeven Switzerland Cédric Lachat
2006 Spain Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza Austria David Lama Italy Flavio Crespi
Czech Republic Tomáš Mrázek
2007 Spain Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza (2) Spain Ramón Julián Puigblanque Czech Republic Tomáš Mrázek
2008 Netherlands Jorg Verhoeven Czech Republic Tomáš Mrázek Spain Ramón Julián Puigblanque
2009 Czech Republic Adam Ondra Spain Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza Japan Sachi Amma
2010 Spain Ramón Julián Puigblanque Austria Jakob Schubert Czech Republic Adam Ondra
2011 Austria Jakob Schubert Spain Ramón Julián Puigblanque Japan Sachi Amma
2012 Japan Sachi Amma Spain Ramón Julián Puigblanque Austria Jakob Schubert
2013 Japan Sachi Amma (2) Austria Jakob Schubert Spain Ramón Julián Puigblanque
2014 Austria Jakob Schubert (2) Canada Sean McColl Czech Republic Adam Ondra
2015 Czech Republic Adam Ondra (2) France Gautier Supper Austria Jakob Schubert
2016 Slovenia Domen Škofic Austria Jakob Schubert France Romain Desgranges
2017 France Romain Desgranges Zdroj:https://en.wikipedia.org?pojem=IFSC_Climbing_World_Cup
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Text je dostupný za podmienok Creative Commons Attribution/Share-Alike License 3.0 Unported; prípadne za ďalších podmienok.
Podrobnejšie informácie nájdete na stránke Podmienky použitia.

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